September 30, 2011

Yohji Yamamoto Spring 2012: 18th Century France and the Dandy

Switching to a serious tone so you guys won't think I'm stupid...

Flipping through Yohji Yamamoto's latest collection, the term "dandy" springs to mind. The first few looks feature androgynously-tailored trousers, white button down shirts, and black leather boots; dandy basics translated into womenswear. Don't expect slick skinny pants, though. There is a total lack of body-con pieces, which I find refreshing amid the skimpy DSquared2 bikinis and Balmain's embellished miniskirts. (Side note: thoughts on Olivier Rousteing, the new designer for said label?)




As the collection progresses, its references to 18th century France become more clear: a purple apron layered over a frumpy lavender dress that makes even the model look like a size 10 nods to the house-servants 18th century families considered a staple, while the layered, "frillier" dresses seem to be deconstructed versions of the gowns aristocrat women wore to tea. However, Yamamoto's take on both the house-servant dress and the aristocrat gown look equally un-luxe in their monotone lackluster fabrics, perhaps ridiculing the antiquated social hierarchy many still follow rigidly.




The dandy carrying the aristocrat's train; maybe a reference to the dandy's desire to imitate upper-class lifestyle despite his middle-class background. 

Whew. I made it. Sorry if I bored you but I'm really into dissecting this collection! Yohji for President!

P.S. I wrote this before Style.com released its review.
P.P.S. I'm trying to think of a more ~creative~ title.
_________________________________________________________________

Find me on Tumblr: lafillenyc.tumblr.com
Find me on Twitter: twitter.com/AlexandraPauly

1 comments:

Stella Miranda said...

Hi, I found your blog on ifb and I love it! The pieces in this collection are amazing, and I'm always a sucker for a bit of a period-feel :)

stella xx

stellamirandaa.blogspot.com